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Boat Bar oozes understated chicness, with sea-foam green chairs, chevron tile floors, and crisp white countertops accented with gold fixtures. It feels like the hippest oyster bar under the sea, but like it also it went to grad school in Paris on its way to Capitol Hill. Renee Erickson opened Seattle's quintessential modern oyster bar with Walrus and the Carpenter, and here, Seattle's star chef found a way to improve even on that. Renee Erickson lays the concept out exactly how it should be done here: Every oyster comes out perfectly shucked, each mussel tastes as if it were plucked from sea this morning. The seafood is always the star here, nakedly simple in a way that shows off its succulence, and yet with tiny, artful touches that maximize flavor potential. Start with oysters, then move onto the other seafood, but don't feel bad ordering any of the beef dishes, either, which come from Boat Bar's steakhouse sibling, Bateau. Classic cocktails and French wines by the glass work best here for casual sipping, as the wine list takes a leap up in price. If you plan to order a bottle, the heavily French list sports a number of exciting options.
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